Seongsan Ilchulbong

After picking up our rental car and dropping our luggage at our friends place, we headed to very east of Jeju island to Seongsan Ilchulbong (일출봉) or Sunrise Peak. This mountain rose from an underwater volcanic eruption volcano about 5000 years ago. The top is 180m high, and it has a bowl-shaped crater of 600m in diameter.

Seongsan Ilchulbong as seen from Hangdo-ro

There is plenty of parking space at the entrance. The way up is easy and takes about 25 minutes of stairs. We went up at about 6.30PM to enjoy the sunset (~7.30PM) instead of the sunrise. Main reason was that next day it would be rainy and the day after we would do Hallasan, so we would not have time to enjoy this beautiful volcano anymore with clear weather. 

Seongsan Ilchulbong

Sunset over Jeju as seen from the top

After enjoying one of the best sunset views in my life, we went down again. When arriving at our car we looked up one last time and were surprised the moon seemed sleeping on Ilchulbong. Then we headed to eat some barbecued black pork and horse, which you can only eat on Jeju island.

Moon sleeping on the Sunrise peak

Hiking Inwangsan in Spring

Inwangsan (인왕산) is a rocky hill in the central part of Seoul, which together with Namsan and Bugaksan surrounds Gyeongbokgung palace. This hill is open 24h a day (but is closed on Mondays). You will find many guard points on the mountain, the only thing the guards wanted from me is not to take any specific pictures of the Blue House (but I think I would need a way more expensive lens to do any harm).

How to get there

This hiking area is directly accessible via subway. I went there a couple of times during this stay in Korea, from Gyeongbokgung station (Line3) and via the Dongnimmun station (Line3, exit2). I personally found Dongnimmum station the better option of the two, as it allows you to pass Ingwansa temple (인왕사), for which you can find signs if you walk straight from the subway exit.

The way up is relatively easy and short, and goes along an old castle wall. It is only 338m high, but because of his granite peak (and no trees in the way), it offers great views on central Seoul.

Spring scenery

I love the mish mash of houses and streets in Seoul

Panoramic view

 From the top, I went down the other way, from which I could take a bus back to Gyeongbokgung.

Way down via the other side

After I really enjoyed the panoramic view during the day-time, I decided to go up at night as well. The view is just mesmerizing, as you can see on my picture below. The guards at the start of the trail were very friendly and asked my information and how long I intended to stay on the mountain, just in case I would have a little accident on the stairs.

Night panorama, the dark rectangular area on the left if Gyeongbokgung Palace

Hiking in Dobongsan Mountain

Dobongsan (도봉산) is a mountain in the more northern part of the Bukhaksan national park. The highest point is Jaunbong (자운봉) which peaks at 739.5m.

How to get there

This hiking area is directly accessible via subway: Dobongsan station (line 1). When you exit the station, just follow the street with all the hiking shops. It is about 15 minutes walking to the Dobong information center.

My hike

After leaving the station, make sure to grab some freshly baked Korean (sweet) pancakes and kimbab (tasty rice roll in seaweed) for your hike. For this hike, I chose the easiest way up to Jaunbong, which starts at the Dobong information center and then goes via the Dobong shelter and Madangbawi rock to the top. At the information center there was a friendly ranger which started talking to me and was making sure I had enough water and food with me (which I always do).


On the way to the top, there is a small temple complex (Cheonsuksa), which offers some nice views on the granite peaks laying behind.

Jaunbong rising up from behind the Cheonsuksa temple

Iron Buddha's lined up at Cheonsuksa temple

Iron Buddha's lined up at Cheonsuksa temple

Fish to ring the bell

The way up is relatively easy, it gets a bit more steep after you pass the Madangbawi rock.

Rocky steps from Madangbawi rock to Jaunbong

 

To climb the actual peak, it gets pretty steep, but with there are cables and metal grips to help you.With dry weather and decent shoes it is doable, I would not go up if it is rainy as the granite tends to get really slippy.

Scrambling to the top

View from Jaunbong

To avoid seeing the same things twice, I decided to go back down via Uiam rock. This was a good decision, as it involves walking on a ridge (Dobongjuneung), which is always a nice thing to do, and also some pretty good views on the different peaks of Dobongsan.

View on Jaunbong on the way to Uiam rock

Me on the Dobongjuneung Ridge

Uiam Rock

When arriving back at the information center, a guy walked enthusiastically towards me. It turned out to be the ranger who helped me earlier that day. I did not recognize him as he was not in his uniform, he just finished his shift and was going home. Great to feel how happy he was that foreigners also come hiking on his  mountain.

My actual hiking route (which I did counter-clockwise)

Gwanaksan Mountain in (early) autumn

At 629 meters, Gwanaksan (관악산) is smaller than it's northern counterpart, Bukhansan, but nevertheless, because of it's rocky peaks, some cliffs and many rugged trails, it is a little hiking paradise in the southern side of Seoul. On the mountain lie numerous Buddhist temples, shrines and hermitages, making it a nice refuge for people escaping city life.

How to get there

Gwanaksan is easily accessible via public transportation (Official Site of Tourism). I took the subway to the Seoul National University station (line 2), Exit3. From there I took a bus (no. 5515) towards the university entrance. You can't really miss it as you just need to follow the other people wearing hiking clothes. Alternatively you can start from Gwacheon station (line 4), but that is where I planned to end my hike.

My hike

In the very beginning, after passing the university campus, the trail passes through Lake Park, which is a small park with an artificial pond, an island and the mandatory wooden bridges. I guess this is a good place for the student couples to have their first romantic dates.

The trail itself is not too steep in the beginning and takes you next to some small streams of water (I guess in  the days after rainfall, the streams will carry much more water). The terrain is a bit rugged from time to time, so I definitely recommend to wear some good hiking shoes, as there are certainly some places where you could easily sprain your ankle. Later on it gets more and more steep, but like in most other parks in Korea, here and there are some stairs installed (or ropes to hold on too).

                    

                           Trail near beginning

Some steeper parts close to weather station

Besides temples, near the top, you will see some radio towers around, luckily not disturbing the view too much. Centerpiece is an (almost) spherical weather station.

Weather station near the top.

What most people are coming for (including me) is actually the inspiring sight on the Yeonjudae Hermitage, which is placed carefully on the edge of a cliff. The hermitage was built in 677 in the Silla Period by a Buddhist priest called Uisang (to which the hermitage was originally named). It changed its name later to Yeonjudae after founding of the Joseon dynasty, by the people that missed the perished Kingdom of Goryeo.

Yeonjudae Hermitage

Yeonjudae Hermitage as seen from the weather station

View inside

180 degree panorama from the area

After a short rest, enjoying the different view from the top and re-energizing myself with some food, I headed back down, but now keeping left on the track. This would lead me towards Gwacheon station. 

Early autumn scenery

I really had a great day today on Gwanaksan and I guess it is only becoming to be more beautiful in the  next weeks, with more autumn colors. Unfortunately, I will not be around in Seoul then, but well... I have something else to look forward to: Seoraksan national park. 

Hike on Yongmasan

 

Uisangbong peak

April 2010, my last day before flying home. Woke up a bit late, but I decided to do another peak in the Bukhansan park: Uisangbong. This peak is much less crowded and lower (503m) than Baegundae, however more difficult to hike: some sections are a bit scrambling, and you better don't look backwards.

How to get there:

From Gupabal Station (Seoul Subway Line 3), Exit No.1, take City Bus No.704 bound for Bukhansanseong Fortress (북한산성). I recommend to have the Korean translation with you when looking for the bus.

Once in the park, it is nearly impossible to get lost with the good signposts.

Steep section

When going up here, I teared my pants a bit apart

View towards the top

Right underneath the top

Baegundae in spring

April 2010, Junseong and me did a hike towards Baegundae (백운대) which is the highest peak (836.5m) in the Bukhansan national park north from Seoul.

How to get there:

We took the subway towards Suyu Station (Line 4) and there is a bus stop near exit 3. Fomr here the blue bus #170 is the one you need. Get off at the end (where most people get off). There is road packed with outdoor shops which leads to Doseonsa Temple and Baegundae's trailhead. As there is not much to see on this road, besides being a warm-up, there is also a small bus from the temple that can lead you there.

Entrance to the trail

Beginning of trail

Ascent to Baegun shelter (looking backwards)

This park is beautiful and because it is so nearby Seoul, it can get quite busy. Indeed, per year, this park averages 5 million visitors and it is in the Guinness Book of World Records for being the national park with the highest number of visitors per square meter.

Getting closer to the peak, I experienced my first traffic jam on the mountain. The parts towards the peak are a bit steep from time to time, but it is mainly the sheer amount of people that make it difficult. At some places, really have to watch you don't put your feet on somebody's hand.

My first traffic jam on a mountain

The traffic jam was building up, as after this ascend it goes to a more narrow ridge.

Ridge near the top. No more traffic jam

Don't look down

As the peak is quite prominent compared to it's surroundings, the view from the top was more beautiful than I first expected from its height. You have a clear view on Insubong peak, which is a place for wall climbers and also on Seoul.

View on Insubong peak from Baegundae

View on Seoul from Baegundae peak

Highest point!

As it was a sunny day, the granite at the mountain top heated up a little bit. Time to lie down, relax and enjoy the view on one of my favorite cities!

Time to relax a bit and enjoy the view